14 giugno - 11 luglio 2012
Team:
Alan, Alfredo, Inma, Janusz, Raymon, Tom
con Akhbar
ITINERARIO
Day 1 - Arrive Islamabad
On arrival transfer to hotel/ Guest House, in Rawalpindi Islamabad (the airport is situated mid-way between Islamabad and Rawalpindi). You will meet your guide in the afternoon at the hotel for a trip briefing and gear check.
Day 2 - Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
a) Weather permitting, we take a spectacular flight to the high mountain region of Baltistan in the north east. On a clear day we should be able to see Nanga Parbat (8125 m) and K2 (8611 m) towering above all other mountains. (It is quite possible adverse weather in Islamabad or Skardu may affect our flight plans and make it necessary to drive by the Karakoram Highway to Skardu, a journey of approx two days).
b) In case of cancellation of flight, drive 10-12hrs by air conditioned coach/car to Chilas (480 km) on the Karakoram highway. Overnight at Shangrila Indus View Hotel or Panorama hotel.
Day 3 - Skardu (2340 m)
a) Overnight Mashabrum Hotel. Preparations for our trek and depending on our time of arrival into Skardu, there may be time to visit the town and possibly an excursion to Kachura Lake situated at the edge of the valley. Skardu is the regional capital of Baltistan, lying at the edge of a broad floodplain that is the confluence of the Shyok, Indus and Basha Rivers.
b) If we are driving the road journey today will be 7-8 hrs to Skardu (275 km). On route are spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8125 m).
Day 4 - Drive to Askole (3000 m, approx 7-8 hrs)
We will travel by jeep with our crew and supplies along the Shigar and Braldu valleys to Askole. Villages in Shigar have changed little in over five hundred years; farms with fields of barley, wheat and vegetables surrounded by stone walls and stands of poplar, willow and apricot trees. The apricot is a very important crop in the north, having a multitude of uses to the Balti and Hunzakut people. Villagers greet us as we pass through on the rugged dirt and stone road that leads to Baltoro. As we approach, the landscapes become desert like and once within the sheer valley of the Braldu, it is necessary to cross the river several times by suspension bridges. At various points the road may have collapsed due to erosion and we will transfer the gear across on foot to a vehicle on the other side. The journey may take anywhere from six to twelve hours, or possibly two days as a result! With patience, we will arrive at our first camp of the trek and the expedition will begin in earnest. In Askole the villagers grow their own cereals, vegetables and fruit and own large herds of sheep, goats and dzos. Overnight in tents.
Day 5 - Trek to Jhola (3200 m, approx 6 hrs)
After considerable organisation of equipment, supplies and porter loads for the journey ahead, we commence trekking towards Jhola. The valley opens out to reveal the Biafo Glacier flowing for more than fifty kilometres from the Hispar La pass to the Braldu. We have our first taste of moraine walking as we cross the snout of the glacier and descend to our lunch spot beside the river. We also experience the harsh, stark environment that forms the base of these great mountains. Our route takes us to the confluence of the Braldu and Dumordo Rivers where the infamous flying fox or 'jola' is located. It is still there, however a footbridge has now been built making the passage much easier by every perspective. (Consider individual passage of 50 to 70 people with loads, compared with walking straight across a steel bridge!). In past years it was necessary to make a high traverse across a rocky face and descend steeply to the riverside of the Dumordo to gain the flying fox. There is now a safe and pleasant pathway above the river. It is this valley, fed by the Panmah Glacier that was once a passage between Baltistan and Yarkhand across the West Mustagh Pass (5370 m) into China. Once across, we descend beside the river to the Braldu and then follow along its banks to our camp.
Day 6 - Trek to Paiju (3450 m, approx 7-8 hrs)
The route is mainly at riverside throughout the day, switching up and down somewhat according to the level of erosion and water levels of the Braldu. The Masherbrum Group may be glimpsed to our right via the Xiangang Valley. The range is a vast array of peaks that extend almost the full length of the southern side of Baltoro. Walking conditions are hot and dry and care must be taken to prevent sunburn. As we approach camp several small glacially fed rivulets flow down from the north and the first peaks of the Trango and Uli Biaho group appear on the distant ridgeline. The vast snout of the Baltoro glacier, the fourth longest in Pakistan, is also visible but it's hard to gather a sense of scale from here.
Day 7 - Paiju (giorno di riposo)
An important preparatory stage for our crew and porters. It is a welcome opportunity for us to relax, read and take photos. Perhaps do some washing and simply enjoy being in the mountains.
Day 8 - Trek to Kurbutse (3930 m, approx 7-8 hrs)
Making the short approach to the glacier, the great expanse of ice stretching across the Braldu comes into perspective when we see the many porters forming an ant-like trail across it. Ice cliffs tower more than sixty metres above the turbulent waters at the origin of the Braldu River. As a result of its continually changing nature, the glacial moraine may be difficult to trek upon at this stage and our route varies somewhat each time. One should be prepared for a hard day of walking and carry plenty of fluid. Once at the other side, the trail will hug the side and occasionally necessitate a glacier or river crossing. There are now uninterrupted views of Paiju Peak (661 0m), Uli Biaho group, Trango Group and Cathedral Group – a majestic, spired collection of mountains that the Karakoram are so well known for. Behind us the steep grassy slopes make high grazing pastures for ibex and the rocks are home to mouse hares (pikas) and colourful hoopoe birds which forage for food scraps.
Day 9 - Trek to Urdukas (4050 m, approx 3-4 hrs)
An easier day's walk, following a good trail at the side of the Baltoro with two feeding glaciers to cross enroute. It is Great Trango (5844 m), facing eastwards, that is considered the greatest cliff face in the world and the point from which two Australians made a world record base jump in 1992. On the trail, pony trains carrying supplies to army camps are often passed and occasional helicopters overhead provide a reminder of our proximity to the disputed territory of Kashmir nearby. The grassy camp of Urdukas is well located before the mountains and is our last before continuing glacial camps. If the weather is clear at the head of the valley we may see Broad Peak (8050 m) and Gasherbrum IV (7930 m), two of the most prominent peaks of the region. ►
Day 10 - Trek to Goro II (4389 m, approx 6-7 hrs)
Descending rugged terrain onto the glacier, we cross to the centre where it is easier trekking. We weave over rolling mounds of rock and scree, not unlike that of a quarry and head almost in a direct path to G-IV. We are in fact steering slightly northwards to a moraine hollow where Goro II is situated. The vast glacial highway of the Yermanendu feeds in from the south, leading from the many mountains around Biarchedi. Crystal and Marble Peaks are now right before us. Looking back towards Paiyu, the impressive mountain groups that have dominated our views over the last few days are now dwarfed as we trek higher and further away.
Day 11 - Trek to Concordia (4650 m, approx 4-5 hrs)
A special day today as we trek into Concordia and enjoy our first views of K2 (weather permitting!). This location must be considered one of the world's most spectacular camps as it is totally surrounded by stunning peaks. As we leave Goro II, the Biange Glacier to the north provides a superb view up to Mustagh Tower (7284 m), one of the most difficult mountains in the Karakoram to climb. The trail continues along fairly easy rolling slopes of moraine marked by cairns and then passes among ice towers or seracs as we approach the colliding glaciers at Concordia. Mitre Peak (6030 m) rises to our right, with Golden Throne (Baltoro Kangri) (7312 m) beside it, while the Gasherbrum Group is directly before us. The expanse of Broad Peak (8050 m) is to the left and finally K2 (8611 m) looms above the ridge towering over the Godwin Austen Glacier twelve kilometres away.
Each mountain is different in character and it's climbing history. It is awe inspiring to know that many of these mountains were explored and climbed upon around the turn of the century but were not submitted until the fifties and sixties due to their difficult technical routes and severe climatic conditions. One presumes they have little changed since these first explorations. Concordia, the junction of the Baltoro, Godwin Austen, Gasherbrum and Vigne Glaciers, makes a perfect base from which to explore and enjoy some of the highest mountains in the world. Very few people are fortunate enough to witness this sight.
Day 12 - Trek to K2 Base Camp (5150 m, approx 4-5 hrs)
Our schedule is somewhat flexible according to the prevailing weather conditions. The objective is to visit K2 Base Camp (approx 5150m) and the Gilkey Memorial, a spectacular hike from camp.The most exciting day of this trek as you walk past Broad peak and get nearer to K2 and arrive at the strip which is the most popular camping area for nearly all the expeditions to K2. Here some of the top climbers of the world can be seen busy in preparations for the challenges ahead. If weather conditions are good, there is plenty of time for sunset photographs in this imposing place.
Day 13 - Trek to Ali camp (5010 m, approx 8-10 hrs)
At this stage of the trip, we may reassess our return/exit route, depending on prevailing weather and route conditions. Our objective is to ascend the Vigne Glacier and cross the glaciated Gondogoro Pass (5685 m) to the Hushe Valley. Crampons are usually required for this pass crossing. It is a challenging pass crossing and will only be attempted in good conditions; your guide will liaise with you on this option as the trip progresses, and make the final decision at the appropriate time preceding the objective. If circumstances don’t allow us to travel this way, we will return by the no-less-spectacular journey back down the Baltoro glacier to the roadhead at Askole. Heading in a different direction, the views are always different and the weather always changing in the mountains; one could not consider this route as repetitious by anyone’s standards.
Today we trek for 8-10 hours (a long way!) on the Vigne Glacier with superb views of Chogolisa and Mitre Peak. Overnight will be spent at Ali camp just below the pass.
Day 14 or 15 - Cross Gondogoro La (5685 m) and trek to Xhuspang (4680 m, approx 8-10 hrs)
930m ascent, 1260m descent. We must start very early in the morning (1am) for a safe crossing of the pass. After 4-5 hours of steep and strenuous ascent we gain the top and if weather is fair we are rewarded with stunning views of K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. The lovely snow and granite knife edged peak of Laila (6200 m), first climbed unofficially in 1987 by a British expedition and unofficially in 1996 by an Italian expedition, rises over the Gondogoro Glacier as we turn to descend. We descend 3-4 hrs to Xhuspang camp (4680m). Xhuspang is named for the turquoise (xhu) flowers which blanket this grassy place in summer.
Day 16 - Trek to Shaieshcho (3330 m, approx 6-7 hrs)
Continuing along the lateral moraine we descend to Shaieshcho, a picturesque campsite nestled amongst tamarisks, wild roses and junipers set beside the river. There are views up to the Charakusa Valley towards K7 (6934m). Tonight there is the chance for song and dance as the porters are relaxed and happy with a successful crossing of the Gondogoro La behind them.
Day 17 - Trek to Hushe (3050 m, approx 3-4 hrs)
Today is our final day of this section of our trekking. 3-4 hours of easy descent bring us to the village of Hushe. Nestled in the Hushe Valley it is the gateway for many expeditions travelling to Masherbrum, the Charakusa and Nangma valleys. Time permitting we may have the option of a short climb to the top of a hillside on the edge of the village to gain unparalleled views of the mountain tops of the entire Baltoro.
Days 18-19 - Drive to Skardu and then to Fairy Meadows
Day 20 - Trek to Jilliper Peak Base camp
Day 21 - Climb Jilliper Peak (5300 m) and back to BC
Day 22 - Trek to Tatto and drive to Chilas
Day 23 - Drive to Islamabad
Day 24 - Islamabad (cushion day)
Day 25 - Fly back home
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